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Day Seventeen: Veracruz, Mexico – Costa Esmeralda, Mexico

Submitted by on Thursday, 19 February 2009No Comment

Day Seventeen
Veracruz, Mexico – Costa Esmeralda, Mexico
105 miles

After a short ride we got to “Costa Esmeralda”; twenty five miles of pristine coast line. The first priority was to find a camping ground and there were many choices, especially now that is off season.  We settled for “Sun Beach” a great spot with smooth grass and beach front property.
A couple of days ago a bee stung Lloyd in the arm and I had to pull the stinger. Funny that my friend was fully suited yet the bee went through his sleeve and got him on the forearm. Today he had Popeye’s arm.
The ocean was supposed to be emerald green, but because of the winds the shore was white making it very rough and brown.
I checked my tire pressure: 20 psi. It meant the leak was getting worst and it was time to get it fixed properly. Riding around town we found Andres, the owner of a “vulcanizadora”. When I honked he came out of a wooden shed. He was shirtless, with a big gut, about twenty thick long hairs on his upper lip and glossy eyes.
I told him about the puncture and he said he could fix it by putting a patch inside the tire. The only thing we needed to do was to take the tire out.  He offered a drink from his water bottle. I said no. He told me softly, “It is good,” and put it close to my nose. It was not water but “aguardiente” or a local liqueur. It was 5 p.m.
Andres was funny, chatty and lit. He pulled his homemade appliances and a rusty bar and proceeds to dismount the tire. I was clinching my teeth and tried not to look every time he banged on the metals. The tire was fixed but my confidence on the road never came back after knowing I had dime-size hole in my tire.
At the local restaurant we ate seafood soup with all kind of creatures hanging out of the bowl. Ana was our waitress. She had a big, shy smile. The funny part is that a girl I met in Antigua told me: Backpackers are really intense. In one stop they find Helen, at the next one they find Ana. (I found them both).
Back at the camping grounds we made a bonfire on the beach. There was a full moon illuminating the shore and shining on the waves.

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